Search issues of West Word online via Google using this search box:
Contents of the online version:
Letters, e-mails and comments are welcome.
Contact Details & How to Subscribe to the Paper
Sign our Guestbook
All photos are copyright either of the individual photographers or West Word.
Not to be reproduced without permission.
It was moody skies for the annual RNLI Gala Day on 24th May, with a mizzle that dampened everything but the spirits… All the better for the MAaD Pipe Band to debut their smart new capes!
See below to read an interview with new Coxswain, David Fergusson.
The first weekend of June saw the first patrols of the Highland Council's team of Seasonal Access Rangers, tasked with engaging with the influx of summer visitors and advising on responsible behaviour in countryside locations.
For locals, tourist season can elicit mixed feelings. While most visitors are well-behaved and the bump in activity and boost to the economy are welcome, the clogged roads, dangerous driving, verge-destroying parking and irresponsible fire-building are a major headache that leave many quietly wishing for autumn to roll around. During COVID, incidents of littering, rubbish dumping and "unofficial" toileting sky-rocketed, and although there has been some improvement since then, these sadly remain a perennial problem.
The 18-strong Access Ranger team, which includes five returners from previous seasons, will patrol key hot spots at weekends throughout the summer. There will be one Ranger assigned to north-west Lochaber.
The news is too little, too late for the local residents who have already come face-to-face with the debris and destruction that many now associate with this time of year.
For Elaine Beattie of Camusdarach, there was heartache in the week leading up to Easter, when she discovered a tree on her property had been sawn down and taken to the nearby beach to be burned. The Silver Birch, which Elaine paid to have planted 25 years ago, was in full bud. She found the tree, which had failed to burn due to its sap content, on the beach just beyond her property-within a flame's lick of swathes of marram grass at a part of the dunes already damaged by a big storm in January.
"It felt a complete waste and mindless," says Elaine. "It takes a long time to have a tree grow and keep safe from deer."
On Tuesday 27th May, George Alick Coull was walking his dogs at the Silver Sands of Morar and found the remnants of a fire surrounded by broken glass from beer bottles that appeared to have been exploded in the fire. The ashes also contained cooking implements, cans and a tobacco pouch. Nearby, a pair of green trees had been hacked down. In years past, George Alick and his wife Grace have tried to re-plant trees at this location, but they have always ended up cut down.
"It's just soul-destroying when you see our beautiful beaches trashed like this," says Grace. "We've been trying and cleaning it up for a good few years now, and nothing happens."
Even if the Ranger program had already launched, a single Ranger patrolling the whole of NW Lochaber on the weekend would have failed to prevent these mid-week incidents.
Local Councillor, Liz Saggers was "extremely disappointed" to learn of the tree taken from Elaine's garden.
"Unfortunately, I'm unable to offer any easy solutions as these are criminal matters and therefore should involve the police rather than the Council," says Saggers, adding that hopefully the new Access Ranger will act as a deterrent.
A spokesperson for Highland Council said: "The behaviour described does not comply with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code ... [Seasonal Access Rangers] will be patrolling key sites every weekend throughout the summer, working both early and late in the day to maximise contact with people camping, in order to engage and educate them on the responsibilities that are a guiding principle of the Scottish Outdoor Access Code."
If you need to report an incident, you can contact the Ranger team by email at accessrangers@highland.gov.uk or reach the Senior Ranger by phone on 07909 051223.
Hello!
This month, we have lots of news from Canna and Rum-who are putting on a Nature festival and celebrating 15 years of community ownership, respectively!
It's also AGM season (apparently!)-see the new Noticeboard page, as well as the Diary, to make sure you don't miss out.
Finally, a warm welcome to a couple of new faces within these pages: Anne Corson, who will be writing the Recipe column, and Neil Cameron, who will be analysing the High School weather station data. And to new RNLI Coxswain, David Fergusson, who was unwittingly the guinea pig for new West Word feature, The Interview.
My thanks to proofreaders Ann and Robert, and to Simon for printer babysitting. Until next month...
Ceri Perkins
editor@westword.org.uk
Morar Station Building, Morar PH40 4PB
What a month of sunshine May was! Everything was bathed in a warm glow, plants started to peek out of the ground, the grass got greener, the lambs got to dancing in the fields, vest tops were worn, hats came off and skin got tanned. The sun just kept on shining-until plants started to struggle, the grass got browner, everything got a bit crispy, the earth cracked, sun-induced frown lines started to appear and there were whispers of: "What if we don't get any rain!?"
But thankfully, it did start to rain-and just in time for our annual Canna 10K Trail Run! The mist and fog descended and the drizzle lasted all day, with heavy downpours overnight. The smell of petrichor was everywhere-bliss!
Good news for the runners, who I am sure appreciated the cooling mist in the air. We had 76 runners show up on the day and the fastest came through in 40 minutes, 45 seconds. Thereafter, it was a steady stream of runners with everyone through the course in under two hours. Well done to all the runners!
Afterwards, everyone was treated to a tasty BBQ and the inaugural opening of our first ever community-run bar: The One-Eyed Sheep! The doors for the ceilidh opened at 7pm and Lachie Robinson and his band treated us to a brilliant, funny and lively ceilidh. They are exceptional young musicians-highly recommend!-and they even treated us to a session in the bar once the dance finished.
Thanks go to the Canna community, who year after year prove that a few people can achieve a lot when we put our minds to it!
May also saw what felt like a huge increase in our visitor numbers. Lots of yachts in the bay, Cafe Canna tables full outside (pizza nights on a Tuesday are proving to be a great hit), campers enjoying the landscape, the shop orders increasing to facilitate the increase in numbers, and the inevitable cruise ships appearing on the horizon.
This all goes to prove what we've been saying all Spring: the 2025 season has the potential to be a busy one! Everybody-gird your loins!
Margaret Willington
This year our community group, the Isle of Rum Community Trust, celebrates 15 years of community ownership. It's been quite the journey from initial inspiration from the Eigg community buy-out in 1997 until now, and not without an awful lot of challenges… but an awful lot of wins too!
We held an exhibition in the village hall on Friday 9th May, which told the story of our progress, achievements, partnerships we've forged and progress we have made over the years. We also included a section on lessons learned and challenges we face and how we try to solve them. I feel it's important to be honest and, let's face it, a small group of volunteers managing all the houses, assets and infrastructure we do is bound to be difficult-and it is-but in spite of that, we have still managed to do great things, including building a fabulous bunkhouse and four new houses. We often face criticism for not doing enough, which we can accept, but with the hope that the critics turn into volunteers willing to help with any shortfalls in action.
The day dawned hot and sunny. Our small team of organisers had been busy for weeks, writing content, snapping pictures, struggling with printers (why do they always let you down when you need them?!), borrowing display stands (thank you Mowi) and cleaning the hall. We almost experienced meltdown when nearly every public toilet on the island decided to block up at the same time-I kid you not. It could have all been rather messy but a few volunteers (Sarry, Lauren and myself) donned full waterproofs and, armed with a pressure washer, drainage rods and a trowel (don't ask), we cleared the blockage and normal business resumed with the bonus of us now understanding how the village hall drainage works for next time…
We invited lots of folk to come along and heaps more people turned up as the stunning weather brought a lot more visitors to the island for the weekend. Among the guests were returning old faces, former IRCT Director John Hutchison and former development officer Vikki Trelfer. One sad omission was Andy Samuel, whom we miss and was always a stalwart of community support at events like this, but his partner and daughter Julia and Brodie were here to celebrate with us.
The afternoon event went even better than we had imagined. Elle manned the door selling raffle and ceilidh tickets for later, Sarry kept the tea and coffee flowing and the rest of us mingled with visitors sharing information and chatting. We made some more new connections… Ceri, our West Word editor and Liz Saggers, our local councillor.
Interestingly, when we listed and laid out all our achievements, it was a surprising amount; several people commented that they didn't realise we had done so much, which was gratifying to hear.
By late afternoon, most visitors had left the hall, so it was time for a quick transformation into ceilidh mode; the band started setting up and food started arriving for the evening meal, provided by the community. Once the food had gone down, the band cranked up for the usual first dance of the evening, the Gay Gordons. Before I forget to mention it, Rhys danced to every dance including the Orcadian strip the willow and had no problem finding a willing female to partner him either, not bad for a 72-year-old!
The hall was full, it was sweaty and (unseasonably) midgey, so the doors were mostly closed. Our band Ross Martin, Gabe MacVarish and Murdo Ewan Cameron did us proud. Ross always tries to make each ceilidh a bit special, and we've had our fair share of interesting dances, including a Virginia Reel done Gangnam style, but this time we had a game. It would have been musical chairs, a seemingly innocent pursuit but after the carnage of the musical chairs decider at the Small Isles Games on Rum two years ago (which will not be easily forgotten!) we decided on musical statues instead. Surprising how well-balanced people can be so late in the evening, and after so much alcohol… no surprise: the kids won.
All in all, it was the best day.
The exhibition remains up in the village hall for any visitors to have a look at. We welcome feedback, so if you have any, please get in touch on info@isleofrum.com.
The weather can't go unmentioned; it has truly been stunning. I think this has been the busiest May for a few years, the island has had so many visitors it's been great.
We should also mention the visit we had from the top brass from Calmac, CMAL and Transport Scotland. There was public meeting in the hall to meet these guys and hear what they had to say about the future of the Small Isles ferry service.
Jacquelline McDonell was also there to give the perspective of the Harbour Authority, which helped build a better picture for understanding how the service operates. Local people were able to share their concerns and current issues that cause problems, and hear back about potential solutions. We also discussed ideas about the replacement for the Loch Nevis, which is now 25, and hopes for a more integrated transport system with local bus and train connections.
Fliss Fraser
Fifteen years ago, the village of Kinloch on the Isle of Rum came into community ownership.
It's been a long road since, full of successes and challenges-but most importantly, a growing community that's adapting and changing with every year that passes.
Locals, visitors and those with a connection to Rum joined together on 12th May, for a heartfelt celebration of collective resilience, determination and the power of people coming together to shape their own future.
Held in the village hall decorated with bunting and pictures of residents past and present, the island pulled together an exhibition telling the story of their community ownership journey. Since taking ownership of the village, four new residential houses have been built and seen several families move in; the island's largest accommodation provider, Rum Bunkhouse, was created and has welcomed thousands of guests through its doors since 2014; and multiple jobs have been established across accommodation and development. We have also embarked on a woodland regeneration plan, and secured International Dark Sky Sanctuary status, marking Rum as one of the best places in the world to view the night sky.
The day continued with a community-led pot luck, with locally sourced venison and fresh sourdough loaves provided for visitors planning to stay the night, and by 8pm, the community ceilidh was in full swing. Prizes were drawn in the raffle and doors were shut to keep the midges at bay, and the event wound down in the wee hours of the morning.
Elle Hutchinson
May has been a month of sunshine, sea swims, and the unmistakable signs of summer settling in across Eigg. With the warm weather, Laig Bay and the pier have seen plenty of swimmers braving the still-chilly waters, while Shell Beach has been a popular spot for campers.
Eigg Guiding has had a busy month, with Jon and Kat organising guided walks across the island for over 100 visitors. From birdwatching with SWT volunteers to Sgurr climbs with Dean and a brewery trip with Charlie, there's been something for everyone. It's been wonderful to see so many people exploring the island's paths and wildlife.
The IEHT Surgery Houses are progressing well, with timber frames now standing tall at the time of writing. It's exciting to see these much-needed homes taking shape.
Meanwhile, lambing season has come to a close, and with it, we welcome Eigg's newest resident: Isabel Lexy Merrick. Congratulations to Anna, Martin, and big sister Edith on your beautiful new addition.
Wildlife-watchers have been treated to the return of long-eared owls gliding over the croftland, and the island is alive with birdsong from swallows, willow warblers and wheatears. The bluebells, primroses and orchids are in full bloom, and the odd Ash tree is putting out its first leaves.
At Eigg Primary, the children have had a month full of adventures. In late April, they took a trip to Muck Primary School aboard the Sheerwater. They were delighted to feed and cuddle lambs, play rounders and spend time with their friends on Muck. In early May, they visited the Silurian, a research vessel known from the BBC's Blue Planet series. The children explored the ship and learned about marine research and the important work being done to monitor whales, dolphins and other marine life around the Hebrides, before trying out some of the equipment and getting a real sense of what life is like aboard a working research boat.
The pupils also participated in a beach clean at Kildonan and Laig beaches, collecting bags of marine litter, including fishing nets and a large red float. They even held a small funeral for a crab they found.
The cabin Damian built for Colin and Marie was finally moved to its new spot below Kildonnan this month. After months of building, prepping, and planning, the move went smoothly, despite a few tight corners and bumpy tracks along the way. It's now in place, looking out over the sea, and fitting beautifully with the surroundings-possibly ready for an Eigg-style cabin warming!
Laurie King and All About Willow's Catherine and Pascal collaborated on their first retreat in May, combining basketry with nature connection, foraging and printmaking. The three-day retreat was blessed with beautiful sunshine and a lovely group, who were very happy with their baskets made with Eigg-grown willow.
Finally, a note from Jackie; After the devastating loss of our Niamh in January, you are all invited to help launch The Niamh Jobson Research Fund, a special fund within The Bone Cancer Research Trust, which will raise funds for Osteosarcoma research. The inaugural event will be held at SWG3 in Glasgow on Saturday, 28th June, from 2pm-8pm, and will feature a stellar DJ lineup. Tickets are available via Resident Advisor or Skiddle. Contact Finn for details on 07460-716911.
Eilidh MacGlip
Hello Muck Calling........and in true Eurovision fashion, apart from being robbed once again, we had a fantastic night of cocktails and questionable fashion (some very questionable) and as this is a family print, some pictures I can't share lest you want to rip your eyeballs out...(you know who you are).
We haven't really had a wee get together for a while, but man we do it well!!
Carl, Megan and troop of kids, dogs, chickens and other birds finally bid a farewell to Muck and as always we wish them well for their next adventure in middle Earth, sorry Central Scotland, and on that note we welcome new Keeper, Kieran, and partner Amy to the Isle-and we await news on the second one.
The weather has been absolutely amazing and made getting around the fields for end of Lambing a real treat for the farm and easier to move flocks and herds. But like all good things, it has come to an end and it's not even school holidays yet... one day of fog and rain and Calmac forget how to deal with a bit of choppy sea ??(fred cross if we're in black & white), and with the uncertainty of it all, visitors were advised to leave a day early and our very own Canna 10K favourite had to abandon and return on earliest boat... I think Phoebe would have had a good chance of the win too if she unhooked her trailer.
Well I think that's all our short news for this month, just awaiting new birds for Gallanach Lodge and hopefully a couple of kids for our depleted school with three pupils now.
Thanks and kind regards, Bruce x
Bruce Boyd
If you've ever tried to plan a ceilidh where half the band are on different ferries, the dancers haven't met, and someone's brought a puffin instead of a fiddle… then you'll understand what organising a nature week on Canna has felt like. In other words: a bit of a joyful muddle, with a lot of moving parts and a whole lot of heart.
It all started with a simple idea: we wanted to celebrate Canna's incredible flora and fauna-the woodlands, the birds, the sea, the farm and crofts and, of course, the night skies. But we didn't just want to talk about nature-we wanted to involve the people who know it, love it and live it. That's where the chaos (and the fun) began...
Themed Days and Big Ideas
At the heart of this event is a deep love for Canna-not just the scenery (which, let's be honest, does a lot of the heavy lifting), but the life it supports. From the forest floor to soaring seabirds, we wanted to showcase it all.
To help bring some rhythm to the week, we decided to shape each day around a different theme: Woodlands, Seabirds, Marine Life, Farm Life and Dark Skies. Each is a doorway into a different part of the island; a chance to see Canna through new eyes.
It gave us the perfect excuse to invite an amazing line-up of speakers, scientists, artists, farmers and wanderers, each with their own expertise and viewpoint. The idea wasn't just to inform, but to spark curiosity, encourage conversation and (hopefully) inspire a few muddy adventures and stargazing evenings along the way.
The week will also offer an important opportunity to gather real data. With so many eyes out in the field, we'll be using the event to record as many species as possible. Every sighting, scribbled note and curious observation will help strengthen our survey records and build a clearer picture of Canna's rich natural heritage. Every contribution counts.
The Dream Team
Canna is lucky to have mycologist and fungi fanatic Liz Holden among our close friends. Liz has been studying fungi for over 40 years, and has that rare ability to inspire people with the magic of mushrooms!
Then there's Tom, our resident Ranger and wildlife guru. Tom is quietly running around behind the scenes, as well as leading walks, answering questions and probably fixing a broken trail marker as you read this. If it flies, flaps or nests in a cliff, Tom's your man.
We're also delighted to welcome Nora Barnes, currently Ranger on Eigg, but well known here too-she's previously worked on Canna and brings with her a deep understanding of marine life.
The Small Isles Snorkel Trail team are joining us too-including Canna's own Margaret, who's been instrumental in making the underwater world more accessible. These folks are full of passion for the sea, whether it's wild swimming, snorkelling, or simply sitting quietly and watching what the tide brings in. If you've ever wanted to know what lurks in the kelp or how to spot a shy crab on the move, they're the ones to ask.
We're thrilled to have Alan Crawford on board. Alan currently works with the National Trust for Scotland, but his experience spans organisations like the Woodland Trust and beyond. He's got a natural ease when it comes to trees-whether he's explaining their role in a healthy ecosystem or sharing old folklore about the "wee things" in the woodlands. Alan will bring a blend of woodland wisdom, practical knowledge and just a touch of the magic.
Beyond the named names, there's everyone else-those who've offered time, space, beds, transport, or just encouragement. From ferry folk to flapjack bakers, this event is being held together by a patchwork of kindness, humour, and that classic island combination of "It'll be fine" and "Let's make it happen".
Getting the Word Out
Once we had our events lined up, it was time to spread the word. We started by uploading each event to Eventbrite, but we soon realised that not everyone finds it the easiest platform to navigate.
So, we took the hint and added all our events to Facebook Events too, and it's been lovely to see people tagging friends and commenting. There's still a bit of trial and error involved (and a few people who didn't know we were on either platform!), but overall, it's been a good way to reach people both on and off the island.
If you're one of the lovely folk who spotted us on Facebook or Eventbrite, thank you! And if you didn't know we were there - now you do. Have a browse and see if anything catches your eye!
Nearly There...
At the time of writing, we're in the "calm before the storm", although that calm mostly consists of printing posters and itineraries, sorting ferry logistics and hoping the weather plays nice. There's a buzz in the air and we're excited to be hosting this event for the first time-let's hope it becomes an annual feature!
It's been months in the making. What started as a rough idea is now a week of events, people and stories all coming together in celebration of the wild, beautiful mess that is nature and community. If you're nearby and curious, please come along. You'll be very welcome.
Vicki Cridland
Sanday seen from Canna trig point
A devastating house fire at a semi-detached property in Glenuig has claimed the life of local resident Sheena Carmichael. Sheena was inside her home when the alarm was raised at around 10:15am on 14th May, and was pronounced dead at the scene. Four fire engines and rotating crews of fire fighters battled the blaze-which spread to the adjoining property-from around 10:45am until around 5:45pm that evening. Two other individuals were treated by paramedics at the scene but did not require hospitalisation. A spokesperson for Police Scotland Mallaig said that an investigation to establish the full circumstances of the fire is ongoing. A Crowdfunder page has been set up to help the families affected: www.crowdfunder.co.uk/p/help-for-the-families-affected-by-the-glenuig-fire.
Kinloch Castle on the Isle of Rum will be put up for sale, after a study canvassing the views of Rum residents found that most feel that selling and redeveloping the castle will have a positive impact on the community. In a statement, Chris Donald, NatureScot's Head of Operations for Central Highland, said: "It's clear from the findings that the most important aspect of any sale for islanders is a long-term commitment to contribute to the Rum community and nature on the island, as well as following the Scottish Land Rights and Responsibilities Statement." Read the full report at: www.gov.scot/publications/kinloch-castle-study-final-report/documents/.
Highland Council announced in late May that a new £2 foot passenger fare will be introduced on the Corran Ferry this summer… and then promptly hit pause on the plan, as a group of councillors demanded a full Council debate to discuss how the change will impact residents and local businesses. The fare, if introduced, will apply to passengers aged 23-60. It would generate around £20,000 per year and "contribute to the sustainability of this vital transport link", according to Ken Gowans, Chair of the Economy and Infrastructure Committee, which approved the new fare.
Interloper test-takers are causing problems for local learner drivers who want to sit their driving tests. The DVSA conducts around 30 tests in Mallaig each year but increasingly, half or more of the slots are claimed by outsiders believing the Mallaig and Arisaig routes offer an 'easy pass'. Local instructor, Raj, had six pupils ready to sit their tests on April 29th, and six slots should have been available-but only three were able to book in. The remaining pupils have been forced to wait six additional weeks, until June 12th - "which, for once, isn't a long wait," says Raj. At other times in the year, pupils have had to wait two or three months for a free slot to come up, or book in for their test at an unfamiliar location.
The Rag N' Tag clothes recycling bins at the local schools are being over-filled, preventing the doors from closing and allowing rain to get in. Schools receive funds in exchange for the bins' contents, based on how much they weigh upon collection. But when the clothes are wet, the weigh-in is cancelled and the schools lose out. "We really appreciate the bins being used, helping us raise money, and decreasing the number of textiles going into landfill," says Mallaig School Cluster Facilities Assistant Liah MacKail. "We just kindly ask parents and others to ensure that items are bagged properly and the bins do not get over-filled to the point the door cannot close."
Arisaig's new children's playpark, situated opposite the Land, Sea and Islands Centre, opened to the public on Monday 2nd June. The project - a joint undertaking by a group of local parents and the Arisaig Community Trust-received funding from the Highland Council, National Lottery, Gower Trust, MOWI, Scottish Sea Farms, and RAS, as well as many donations from the public. An official opening celebration will take place on Saturday 5th July - details to be announced soon, via Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ArisaigCommunityTrust.
Hello, it's me again! Before I dive into on this month's news, let me mention this time-limited offer...
ScotRail's "Club 50" flat fare offer is back!
If you're over 50 and intend to make a long journey by ScotRail between now and June 25th, ScotRail's returning Club 50 offer is well worth considering. First, you'll need to have a Smartcard. This must be ordered online, at a cost of £15, and will be sent in the post within five working days. Smartcards are valid for one year. With the Club 50 offer, you can travel between any two ScotRail destinations for £19 return flat fare. For return tickets, your return journey must be completed by 24th July, 2025. During the promotional period, you can buy as many flat fare tickets as you wish, and you can break your journey to change trains, but be aware-you may be asked to provide proof of age. The offer is available on all ScotRail services, as well as on First Transpennine services to/from Lockerbie and Reston. What's not to like? Happy travelling!
Friday 9th May: An unexpected visitor on the line!
Bathed in glorious, best-in-the-West evening sunshine, one of Network Rail's dedicated monitoring trains, known affectionately as the "yellow fleet" was spotted in. These trains are designed to monitor rail infrastructure and assess the condition of the track, so that engineers can identify any areas that need attention. This particular train, I believe, will soon be decommissioned and replaced by a more modern version, so this may well have been its final visit to us. It was spotted in Oban on the 8th, and after visiting Mallaig it stayed at the depot at Fort William, before returning to England the next day using a short term pathing schedule. The cab unit was number 950001, and the first carriage was 3106. Keeping Britain's railways safe, it worked away trundling in no particular hurry, bristling with complicated equipment. As the driver departed, I thought: What a wonderful way to celebrate a West Highland sunset.
Progress of sorts at Mallaig railway station
Work has now been completed at the south end of Mallaig's central platform, with the erection of a barrier, gate, brackets, locked handrails and steps. However, I've heard no news filtering through on the actual platform extension itself - necessary in order to allow the Highland Explorer's fifth coach to be added to our branch line route. It is now TWO YEARS since it was first trialled into Mallaig. What is going on??
Colas Rail driver training
In the late afternoon of Thursday 29th May, just before the afternoon Jacobite loaded its passengers to depart Mallaig, I heard a distant rumble on the line coming into Mallaig… It turned out to be a Colas Rail Class 37219 locomotive on driver training, route learning duty. I believe that Network Rail have awarded a contract to Colas for the forthcoming autumn/winter season, to keep our lines open in advance of possible problems. The driver on this particular day negotiated the points, waited for the Jacobite to depart and reach Arisaig, freeing up the section for it to depart. It continued to fit in between the late-running evening ScotRail service, passing it at Arisaig before departing to Glenfinnan at 6:35pm. With a cheery wave from the driver and plenty of Midge bites, I considered how many passing loops he would negotiate on the way back to Fort William, and settled in with a brew of tea. Job done!
Secrets of Flying Scotsman
Did you book your seat in front of the TV on Saturday, 31st May (9pm, Channel Four) to watch the first of two programmes, with the above title? One hour in length, the documentary was entertaining and well researched.
From its initial conception on the drawing board to its achievement in 1923 of working as part of the fleet of trains run by LNER Kings Cross, London, to Edinburgh, the 500-tonne locomotive with six driving wheels and a corridor in its tender for crews to change en route, 4472-better known as the Flying Scotsman-was a beast of beauty.
It was even exhibited with pride as a static display in the British Empire exhibition at Wembley in its early years! It served its time on war duties, and on November 30th, 1934, on a return trip from Edinburgh to King's Cross, became the first locomotive to record an analogue recorded speed of 100 miles per hour, non-stop. The documentary featured passengers from that day and line-side crews recalling the moment.
The Flying Scotsman has changed owners many times over the years-and bankrupted some of them. The documentary is not just for trainspotters! It tells the story of Great Britain's wonderful engineering and the interviews with the living relatives of the original owners were riveting. All in all, it's a cracking good story, charting the rise and fall and rise again of this living-today locomotive. The second hour-long programme will air on Channel Four at 9pm on Saturday 7th June, and both episodes will be available on catch-up. Just what Saturday night TV was made for!!! Well, I think so anyway.
HBO Harry Potter TV series news is magical
You surely must have heard of JK Rowling's agreement to be an Executive Producer of a faithful adaptation of the beloved books set at Hogwarts School... The seven-book series was made into eight films - and will now be turned into seven seasons of television. Filming will commence, at Warner Brothers' 200-acre studio in Leavensden, Hertfordshire, later this summer, and the series will premiere some time next year. Harry, Hermione and Ron have been cast (with a young Scot unveiled as the new boy wizard!) and the producers have announced that they cannot wait for the world to see their magic together on screen. The HBO show is said to be costing £75 million an episode, but I hear that this figure is open to discussion!
There's no denying the free publicity that will ensure many millions of visitors continue to visit our landscape, railway line, lochs, Munros, etc., which we gladly welcome. Is it a coincidence that on the West Coast Railways website, on the timetable page for 2025, there is a notice saying that due to scheduled line maintenance, we are unable to run the Jacobite service from the 1st to the 5th of September 2025...? Or am I overthinking? Hmm, say no more.
And finally...
Visiting Fort William this week, on Wednesday 4th June, was the Locomotive Services Ltd. West Highland Pullman touring HST top and tailed train. Leaving from Morpeth at 05:55 and picking up guests at various locations en route, it arrived into Fort William at 14:01, departed at 15:36, and arrived back at Morpeth at 23:59. The touring train is the epitome of the ethos that the journey, not the destination, is the trip itself. It is the full Pullman experience, with First Class travel, high-end dining, luxury seating, etc. No time to fit in a trip on our branch line, but that will come around again in the autumn.
On the evening of Friday 6th June, the Pullman returned again to Fort William, this time departing from Shenfield. Guests will get two nights to enjoy Fort William, departing again on Sunday 8th June at 09:05 and due to arrive back at Shenfield at 23:28. What an adventure!
See you on the train,
Sonia Cameron
Regional Screen Scotland's campaign to raise £1.7 million for a new mobile cinema vehicle received a major boost in May, when the Scottish Government announced a donation of £500,000. The grant has allowed Regional Screen Scotland (RSS) to place an order for a new Screen Machine vehicle, which should take about a year to build. The group is now urgently focused on raising the balance (which currently stands at £450,000) by year-end.
The Screen Machine is an 80-seat state-of-the-art mobile cinema, which brings the latest films to remote and rural communities across Scotland. The service, which launched in late 1998, is an important asset to rural and island communities, says Scotland's Deputy First Minister, Kate Forbes: "It has proved its worth over 26 years, providing entertainment that town and city residents take for granted."
After 18 years of service and 250,000 miles on the road, the previous vehicle was retired in 2023. Since then, RSS has been fundraising to cover the cost of its replacement-using a leased vehicle in the interim.
It's a complex piece of kit, as Mallaig residents know all too well after the latest visit in May was cancelled a couple of days into the run due to a sound system fault. "Our operator was unfortunately unable to fix [the issue] on his own, so we had to call in experts," explains RSS's Operations and Communications Assistant, Drew Taylor. "There are lots of parts to Screen Machine, and sometimes a piece just stops working, which is what happened in this case."
The bespoke vehicle now on order will be adapted to negotiate our rural roads and the ferry network-as well as being energy efficient and able to charge via solar panels and battery packs, instead of a diesel generator.
Taylor tipped his hat to the many members of the public who helped RSS secure the government grant: "The letters that our supporters wrote to their elected representatives in late 2023 played a big role in bringing our campaign to the attention of the Scottish Government. We can't thank them enough." In addition, the public has donated nearly £50,000 by adding a little to their ticket purchases, putting cash in donations buckets and supporting the Crowdfunder campaign.
The campaign has also received two large pledges of £350,000 apiece-one from energy firm SSEN Transmission and one from another large agency-but both are contingent on the £450k balance being raised in the next six months. "We're applying to trusts and foundations now, but any money members of the public can donate to us will be greatly appreciated and help take us closer to our goal," says Taylor.
To donate, scan the QR code or visit: www.crowdfunder.co.uk/p/save-our-screen-machine
11th May 2025
The first call of the month came in at 2.33am, when the RNLI Mallaig crew were tasked by HM Coastguard with transporting the Scottish Ambulance Service to the Isle of Muck. A casualty required medical assistance so the patient, paramedics and crew made their way back to Mallaig. The lifeboat was refuelled and ready for service again by 6.00am.
14th May 2025
At 7.47pm, the pagers sounded for the Mallaig crew when reports of an injured person, inland at Elgol, required assistance. HM Coastguard requested the lifeboat to collect CRT members to relocate them along the coast nearer to the casualty. However, they were able to move the person without further assistance from the RNLI crew so the lifeboat was stood down while en route.
17th May 2025
A concerning call for help came when it was reported that there was a missing person in the water at the mouth of Loch Hourn. The pagers sounded at 7.51pm and the Mallaig RNLI crew headed out. Whilst en route it was clarified that the missing person was actually two people; sail boarders reportedly in the water off Camus Croise area in the Sleat peninsula. Fortunately the casualties were found ashore and so the crew were stood down. The lifeboat was refuelled and ready for service again by 8.40pm.
20th May 2025
At 2.35am, the RNLI Mallaig crew were tasked with searching for a missing person in the vicinity of Loch Nan Uamh. Once on scene, it was confirmed that the search area was more defined to Loch Beag. A light was spotted in the trees and the y-boat deployed with two crew members to investigate the source. Fortunately the light source was confirmed to be with the missing person, who had become separated from their camping party. They were brought back to the lifeboat and taken to a safe point of landing, where they were handed to the care of HM Coastguard and Police Scotland. At 4.50am the lifeboat was stood down and returned to Mallaig for service at 5.55am.
The Mallaig crew did not have to wait long for their next pager call as on the same day, at 9.57am, the lifeboat was tasked with transporting the Scottish Ambulance Service to a casualty in Doune on the Knoydart Peninsula. With the aid of the RNLI crew and HM Coastguard personnel the patient was taken to the lifeboat and transported back to Mallaig. Arriving at 12.20pm the casualty was transferred to an ambulance for onward care at the hospital. The lifeboat was ready for service at 12.35pm.
The Mallaig RNLI Open Day took place on Saturday 24th May and we'd like to say a huge thank you to everyone who volunteered or donated. Despite the dreich weather, there was a great turnout and the event has raised £3952 so far (with a few more donations outstanding)!
Our new Coxswain David Fergusson will soon be joining the station. After having to call the lifeboat crew for help a couple of times recently, when working and living as the Estate Manager in Camusrory Estate, he was inspired to apply for the job. He and his wife Carol have now moved to Mallaig and are looking forward to meeting more people in the community.
The station is still on the hunt for a full time, paid Mechanic (Station Technician). Do you have knowledge and experience of the operation, maintenance and repair of marine diesel engines? Do you have an engineering background? This could be the role for you. For more info and details of how to apply visit jobs.rnli.org and click on Job Vacancies.
The volunteer roles of LOM (Lifeboat Operations Manager) and DLA (Deputy Launching Authority) are essential to the daily operations of the lifeboat station and we are still on the lookout for people to step up. The LOM is responsible for the day-to-day running of the station and has the authority to launch the boat. The LOM is supported by one or more DLAs who can act in their absence and take responsibility for authorising the launch of the lifeboat. If you live locally and could volunteer your time we would love to hear from you. Please pop into the station or give us a call (01687 462579) as the Coxswain and crew will happily chat to you further about the requirements of the roles.
Jessica Logan
The new solar setup for the lighthouse has still to arrive, so the lighthouse is still not operational, although it has had a coat of paint in the meantime! We are asking vessels to please take extra care on the approach to Mallaig. The green buoy is still flashing to mark the edge of the channel, providing navigational guidance, but the warnings about the lighthouse not being operational are still in force at the moment.
The solar panels are now installed on the Feed Shed-just in time for the weather to break! The intention is that they will be connected to a battery bank and that we can use the power around the Harbour in the first instance, reducing our electricity costs from the grid. We have the potential to generate almost 80 kilowatts of solar power from the 181, 440 Watt panels, which should result in a reduction in CO2 generated by the Harbour each year of 16 tonnes.
Fishing landings have continued to be relatively steady throughout May, with one or two larger vessels landing through the Harbour again.
The Lord of the Isles has made a welcome return to the service between Mallaig and Lochboisdale. As mentioned last month, there will be some changes to the timetable to accommodate freight back to the mainland. For the period 2nd June to 20th July, the service will run to OBAN rather than Mallaig on a Monday and a Wednesday. There will be just one sailing between Lochboisdale and Mallaig on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays during this period, and two sailings on Thursdays and Saturdays. The Loch Fyne continues to operate a single vessel service between Mallaig and Armadale, and will do so until 30th June. There are some tidal constraints for the period between the 24th and 30th June, so please do check with CalMac if you intend to sail on the route.
I feel like May has been a month of travelling, which culminated in visits to the Small Isles on the 20th and 21st May. I was invited to accompany representatives from CMAL, CalMac and Transport Scotland to all four of the islands, Muck and Eigg on the 20th and Rum and Canna on the 21st. We had beautiful weather over the two days, and some really good conversations on each of the islands. We are very conscious that capacity for ferry operations is constrained in Mallaig, in terms of only having a single linkspan, limited marshalling space and limited space for freight. Although it feels like she is a relatively new vessel, the Lochnevis is actually 25 years old, and part of the reason for our visits to the islands was to encourage people to start thinking about what they might want from a replacement for the Lochnevis. This was particularly interesting for me, as I remember the discussions that were held prior to the Lochnevis being built, from working for the Isle of Eigg Heritage Trust when these were taking place. At that stage, all the infrastructure on the islands had yet to be built, and it was difficult to imagine the growth that might take place on each of the islands over the 25 years. It's a really positive story for Mallaig and for each of the islands, but it's easy to see where frustrations arise. I am glad that I am able to be part of the next stage, albeit in a totally different role!
John and I travelled to Ullapool on Monday 1st May to attend the West of Scotland Port Security Meeting. As the name suggests, this is a gathering of West Coast Ports, who meet agencies including the Border Force and the Counter Terrorism Police to discuss any security issues affecting ports and harbours. We then had a tour of Ullapool Harbour, including their new Cruise Terminal Facilities. Given the rain that there was that afternoon in Ullapool, we could see the need for the new facilities-and the umbrellas that are provided for cruise passengers!
We had our annual audit week commencing 12th May, and I also travelled to London that week to attend the British Ports Association's Annual Lunch in the Guildhall as a guest of CMAL. There were 500 guests from around the UK, including the Transport Minister for Aviation, Maritime and Security, Mike Kane MP, who made the keynote speech, after we were welcomed by the new Chair of the British Ports Association, Doug Bannister, who is CEO at the Port of Dover. The Guildhall itself is an impressive building. It's Grade 1 listed, and as well as event spaces there is also an Art Gallery housing the City of London Corporation's Art Collection; and a Roman Amphitheatre, which was only discovered in 1988, and which is visible through glass partitions from the upstairs building! I took the opportunity the next morning to meet with our Insurance Advisor and our Underwriters, and was then given a tour of the Lloyds Insurance Building before flying home.
We were happy to be involved with the RNLI Open Day on 24th May. Once again, the harbour staff did a great job in getting things organised to make sure the Harbour was ready for the event. Unfortunately, the weather broke the night before, so after weeks of sunshine, it was misty and rainy, but I don't think it dampened spirits too much on the day. It gave the MAaD Pipe Band a good reason to show off their new waterproof capes if nothing else! The Fisheries Protection Vessel Minna was also in the Harbour and was open for people to go aboard and learn about the work done by Marine Scotland.
Some of you may have noticed the new deadhaul vessel FSV Scotia, which has been built for MOWI and arrived over the weekend of the 24th/25th May to do some trials before starting work at the end of June. The vessel is 50m by 12m, and looks quite imposing in the Harbour. She will become a regular sight around Mallaig, working alongside the Ronja vessels to harvest salmon for MOWI.
Our AGM will take place this year on Friday 13th June at 1.30pm in the West Highland Hotel. As usual, we will provide a buffet lunch, and will then do a short presentation on what we have achieved over the year and our future plans. Everyone is very welcome to attend.
Jacqueline McDonell
01687 462154
Ian Coates was born on 13th February 1956, in Sparks cottage, Mallaig, to John and Blanche Coates. He was born with the 'caul' over his face, which is considered very lucky In fishing communities; it means you will never drown. This is just as well, because he never learned to swim.
Ian has an older sister, Blanche, and two younger sisters, The Twins, Shona and Heather. Sadly, Ian's mother Blanche died when he was only 12.
Ian worked from an early age. He had fond memories of working with Sonny MacMillan on the fish van, going to far flung places like Acharacle. They went around the local campsites; Fiona remembers spotting this good looking boy on the fish van…
Ian left school early to go to sea with his uncle, Hendry Addison, and Roddy MacKenzie on the Harvester. He was also on the Orcades with Alistair Henderson, David Reid and Ronnie Gillies among the crew. He then joined the Crystal Sea, owned by the Mansons-he was great friends with James and Raymond. The Mansons sent him off to Glasgow to sit his ticket. After the Crystal Sea, Ian worked with Peter Maclean on the Heatherlea.
In the early 80's, Ian bought his first boat, the Starwood, crewed by Iain Gribbens, Martin Poole and Neilly Gillies, later Donald MacLellan.
Ian met Fiona MacLellan in 1986, and they married in 1988. They were together for 38 years and raised two sons, Duncan and Fraser. They started married life in Gillies Park, before shifting to East Bay, living next door to Ian's Nana Emily and Sister Heather up the stair. They moved to Suinsletter in December 1999. It had been Fiona's grandparents' Croft, and despite it being a bit isolated, Ian loved it.
The Starwood was decommissioned in 1997/98. Ian then bought the Golden Eagle, an older wooden boat, which he later sold to the Kennings. His last boat was the Girl Zoe, renamed Starwood, bought from his friend Kenny Campbell on Skye.
Unfortunately, she sank off Skye, resulting in a dramatic helicopter rescue. That was the end of Ian's fishing career.
Ian in the wheelhouse of the fishing vessel Starwood
Ian's first job after that was with Raymond Manson. Raymond had bought a farm on the East Coast. Ian and Iain MacDonald (the twin) helped fit a kitchen and general odd jobs. Ian then became the boatman for Sir Cameron Mackintosh, taking building supplies up Loch Nevis to Tarbet. He was also the cook, making the evening meal every night. When Sir Cameron's house was nearing completion, he advertised for an Estate Manager/boatman and housekeeper. Ian was keen to apply. Fiona wasn't so sure, but they spent two happy years up at Kylesmorar, working for Sir Cameron.
Ian then went to work for North Star, out of Aberdeen, on standby and supply boats. He was a Daughter Craft Coxswain. He moved on to work for Vector Offshore as part of the BP Jigsaw project. He was the Commander of an autonomous rescue and recovery craft (ARRC). He did this for about eight years. He was involved in the recovery after a helicopter crash off Fraserburgh in 2009, and in recovering a fisherman from the North Sea in force seven conditions. One of his crew sent a message after Ian's death about that day: "Ian's calm demeanour and professionalism during that mission was truly admirable. I was grateful to have him onboard our rescue vessel."
After being made redundant from Vector, he had several jobs locally-with the Western Isles, and with Andy Race, delivering fish to hotels and restaurants. We once went to the Lochbay restaurant in Waternish (Michelin star) with my sister and her husband; we were treated so well, even got behind the scenes because Ian delivered their fish!
Ian considered himself very lucky to get a job down in Ramsgate, Kent through a Knoydart connection, Nigel Boston. He worked on the Terschelling, for Historic England, taking divers out to the wreck of the Rooswijk, a Dutch East India Company ship that sank off the Goodwin Sands in the English Channel in 1740. He loved being a part of that and kept in touch with friends he made there.
Ian's final job before retirement was with CalMac as a freight assistant for the Small Isles. He enjoyed that-his colleagues, the island folk he met-but he never did like working on computers!
Ian had a short but happy retirement. He got to meet the parents of Fraser's fiancé, Caroline. Someone described him in a sympathy letter as a happy man. He was: happy at sea, happy at home, loved by his wife and sons and a proud grandfather to Victoria. He may have left us too soon, but he lived life to the full and left us with nothing but happy memories.
Fiona Coates
Ian's funeral service was conducted by Fr Stan Pamula in St Mary's Church, Arisaig. The wonderful sum of £1303.40 was raised in Ian's memory and will be shared between the RNLI and St. Mary's, Arisaig.
Mallaig Lifeboat Station's new Coxswain, David Fergusson, officially joined the crew on Monday 2nd June. His responsibilities, once fully qualified, will include ensuring the lifeboat is ready for service, commanding the crew at sea, and conducting rescue operations. West Word caught up with David just before his first day on the job, to see how he was feeling and find out what makes him tick…
What inspired you to apply for the position?
I'm from a seafaring family. My dad's a skipper for CalMac, and he's got a couple of dive boats based down in Lochaline. That made a big impact on me from when I was quite young-helping out in that environment. I've been out to help my dad quite a few times with divers that have got into difficulty.
For the last five years, I've been working as the Estate Manager at Camusrory, up at the head of Loch Nevis. We've had quite a few encounters with the RNLI up there, helping out with hillwalkers that have come a cropper and needed extracted and so on. But we also had a couple of more significant events on the Estate. We had a lad that had a quad bike accident, and I was just blown away by the response that we had from the RNLI. The lifeboat was there in about 40 minutes along with the Helimed air ambulance and the Coast Guard helicopter. It took the entire team to help rescue this lad, and it was quite something to watch. Then back in January, my wife, Carol, had a fall at Camusrory and landed on some icy concrete. Again, the RNLI team were back up to help us out, and that had a big impact on us too.
When I saw the job advertised, I thought it'd be an opportunity to give something back. And here we are!
In what ways did your role at Camusrory prepare you for the one you're stepping into?
My official job title was Estate Manager and Stalker, and I was responsible for running the Estate and all of its boats, as well as managing the deer on the Estate. It was a challenging and dynamic environment. Camusrory is only accessible by boat, so boating became a significant part of my life-endless hours spent in and out of Mallaig, and on Loch Nevis in all sorts of weather.
I also did a lot of cruising around the west coast of Scotland and out to the Faroes with the boss, in his motor cruiser, exploring the islands and all over the local area. All of that has prepared me quite well, with a lot of transferable skills.
Tell us about your move to Mallaig; where are you and how are you finding everything?
When I applied for the job, I wasn't sure whether I'd get it. But I thought-Well, if I do, I'm going to have to find a place to live. We had a look online, and I think we found maybe two houses for sale. We went to have a look at one up on Coteachan Hill, and the front window looked out at the Harbour and the lifeboat was right in the middle of the view from the window. I thought, if that was ever a sign..! So we put in an offer on the house. As it happens, we got the house and I got the job, so it all fell into place really nicely.
Carol was the Housekeeper and Cook at Camusrory, and while all this was unfolding, an advert came up for a job at Western Isles Cruises. She applied for that, and got the job working in the office there. It all worked out really well.
How are you enjoying life in Mallaig, so far?
We're loving it. It's really quite a special place-and a really nice community. The funny thing is, we've been in and out of here for the last five years, but always just kind of passing through to get up to Camusrory. So although we've been involved with Mallaig quite a bit, we've still got a lot of people to meet yet.
We're loving being back in a community. Camusrory was obviously very isolated, especially during the winter. There were a lot of days when the weather was that rough that even if you'd planned to do something, you couldn't really get out.
We got the keys for the house on my birthday, 30th April-a good birthday present! But we've literally only just moved in. I finished with my old employer on Friday 30th May and will start training at the station on Monday [2nd June]. It's been a quite a long process moving everything out of Camusrory and up to Mallaig.
What does your training program look like?
We'll be going straight in to it on Monday [2nd June], and it's quite a big training plan. You've got to start from the bottom and work your way up through all the various levels: Tier One, Tier Two, Crew, Navigator, and finally the Coxswain Plan. It's going to be a busy, busy year ahead!
What are you most looking forward to, and what do you think will be the biggest challenges?
I'm really looking forward to getting stuck in with the team, getting to know the boat and meeting everybody. One of the bigger challenges will be familiarising myself with how the whole system works, getting the team gelled together and figuring out how we're going to get the place running efficiently. I'm hoping to get some new volunteers signed up. I'm looking forward to it all!
Favourite way to spend a Sunday?
Probably in the garden with my wife and dogs. We've always been keen gardeners, and we like a good DIY project.
Please tell us about your dogs; I've heard you have six...
Yeah... we've got six; three Jack Russells and three Labradors. It can be a bit noisy when they're all together! Two of them are getting on a bit-13 years old-but they're still quite spritely for their age. We had them because, being a gamekeeper, I used to work them. But they're all retired now, living the life of luxury in the new house! They'll take a bit of adjusting to town life, but they seem to be settling in.
[Editor's note: This interview has been edited for length and clarity.]
Mostly dry and sunny for the first three weeks, with no proper rain until the 23rd.
Still a few migrant waders such as Whimbrel, Golden Plover, Turnstone, Purple Sandpipers, Dunlin and Sanderling reported passing through the area, stopping only briefly to rest or feed before moving on in the settled conditions. A flock of 40 Whimbrel by Traigh Golf Course on the 4th was the highest count reported.
Continued arrival of our summer visitors. On the 8th, Spotted Flycatchers were seen in Arisaig and on the 11th, the first Wood Warblers were reported from there also.
Arctic Terns were offshore from Mallaig and Camusdarach from mid-month. Great Northern Divers were widely reported early in the month, but numbers rapidly dwindled as birds moved North, with just the odd straggler left, including one offshore from Mallaig Bheag on the 28th.
Both Great and Arctic Skuas were seen offshore in the Sound of Sleat and good numbers of Manx Shearwaters seen feeding off Mallaig at times.
The first broods of Canada Geese were seen at Loch Ailort on the 10th, followed by broods of Greylags on the 12th. The first broods of Eiders were noted from the 19th at Loch Ailort and around the shoreline at Traigh.
On the 13th there was a possible sighting of a Hen Harrier between Loch Morar and Heatherlea. Reports of Barn Owls from Morar and Carnach, Arisaig.
Niall and Juliet Blackie took their West Word to St Kilda, where they found the water unexpectedly warmer than off Rhu!
May's West Word complimented Rachel Crawley's outfit perfectly on her recent trip to Milan.
Members of the Mallaig and District Canoe Club thumbed a copy on the Treshnish Isles,
during the Club's Summer Cruise (read more on page 35), where...
... former West Word Editor, Kirsty, used all her balance skills to continue reading her copy in restless waters at the entrance to Fingal's Cave on Staffa.
West Word
Morar Station Buildings
Morar
Inverness-shire PH40 4PB
Scotland
The paper version of West Word contains approximately 40 pages (A4 size) including:
For 12 issues: £45 anywhere in the UK
£75 for Europe / £90 for the rest of the world.
Contact the Editor to subscribe.
Digital subscription now available - please enquire for details.
www.westword.org.uk © 2002 - 2025 WEST WORD
Site design by The Internet Guide to Scotland
Mallaig & District Newspaper is a Scottish Charitable Incorporated Organisation No. SC048780